It is always better to start sewing from the simplest project. Sun skirt is the option that can be advised to beginners. It goes to any shape and can be made from almost any fabric. Calculations for the pattern are made on the basis of just a few measurements. Even a novice craftswoman can sew a beautiful and fashionable thing with her own hands.
Sun skirts come in 4 types:
- full sun (ordinary)
- ¾ (three quarters of the sun)
- half-sun (or 1/2)
- ¼ (fourth)
This picture will help you figure it out.
Depending on the length, the skirts can be divided into three groups: mini, midi, maxi.
For average height (about 170 cm):
- Mini - from 35 cm to 40 cm
- Midi - from 66 cm to 71 cm
- Maxi - from 96 cm to 102 cm
In my step-by-step instructions will be considered, tailoring the usual sun skirt (full sun) mini size (or midi if for girls).
To build a pattern of such a skirt you need only two measurements: waist circumference and product length. In fact, you need to carve out a circle of cloth, in which there will be another circle - a belt. The main task is to correctly calculate their radii. The pattern (or rather, its half) will be built on paper, bent in half.
Measure waist circumference and add an allowance of at least 1.5 cm to it to fit. Often, such an allowance is made already during the measurement, and the waist circumference is recorded with it. So we get the size FROM (waist circumference).
Next, we recall the course of geometry and make the necessary calculations. The circumference is equal to the product of the number π and two radii (c = 2R x 3.14). Therefore, to calculate the radius of a circle, it is necessary to make the following calculations: divide the circumference (waist circumference) by 2 π (2 × 3.14 = 6.28), i.e.
R = OT / 6.28
Set aside segments AA1 and AA2, equal to the calculated radius.
Build an angle of 90 degrees, the top of this angle is point A. It is necessary to postpone along the segment on the sides of the angle equal to the radius of the circle (belt).
Use the ruler as a compass (if you doubt your accuracy, take the real one) and draw a dotted circle line with the same radius on the pattern canvas.
Next measure - skirt length (DU). Put off the segments A1H1 and A2H2 on the sides of the corner. Then build a new circle. Its radius is better to postpone from point A (after all, inaccuracies in the construction of the first circle will be reflected on the lower edge). The radius of this circle will be equal to the sum of the segments АА1 and А1Н1.
Your building yielded half the front piece. Cut it out, getting a half skirt pattern by folding the paper. You can mark in advance the allowances for the upper and lower edges, or put them on the fabric when cutting.
At this stage it is very useful to attach a paper pattern to the figure and correct possible shortcomings (and the novice master should practice having cut the entire skirt on paper).
Additionally we cut out a rectangle that will become a belt. Its length will be equal to the waist circumference + seam allowances, and the width should be twice as much as desired + seam allowances.
Cutting Sun Skirts
Bend the fabric in half across the warp threads. Cutting should be made by putting the pattern with a diameter on the fold line and securing with pins. If you didn’t make allowances for the hem and belt seam on the pattern, you can put them directly on the fabric, setting aside the desired distance from the paper.
The length of the allowances will depend on the type of seam selected for processing. It is better to make allowances a little more, so that it is possible to adjust the final details in case of inaccurate measurements.
Now you should cut the skirt, grabbing all the fabric with scissors. As a result, you get the necessary circle. We cut it along the fold line of the fabric on one side: in this place lightning will be stitched in.
The next step in building a pattern is fitting it. You will be very helpful dummy. Put a future skirt on it and let it hang. Since the skirt is cut along an oblique, the warp threads and fabric weft may be slightly deformed.Skirt should hang
After the skirt hangs, if necessary, trim the bottom line of the skirt with sharp scissors, attaching a paper pattern to it.
Sewing a skirt-sun
Getting started is better with sewing a belt.
Connect the belt part and the lining and fold the allowances on the two long sides of the belt to the wrong side, securing the bends with the iron. Bend the belt along the face inward and secure the fold with pins.
Sew the edges on both sides of the machine, and then turn the belt on the front side.
Chop the bottom of the skirt using a seam that fits your fabric. You can, for example, process the edge of the skirt on the overlock or fold the fabric twice.
Iron off the bottom edge of the skirt and proceed to the processing of the belt.
Apply a seam to the detail of the skirt at a distance from the edge of the fabric. It will help to navigate when sewing the belt. At this stage, you can lay the back seam, leaving a slit for stitching a zipper.
Fold the edges of the incision and secure them with a machine stitch.
Fasten the belt with pins to the top edge of the skirt so that the canvas is located between its halves. Attach the belt to the skirt.
It remains to sew in a skirt zipper, pre-fixing it with pins.
That's all! The skirt is ready 👍